Honeywell Vista 20p Installation Guide

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Honeywell Vista 20p Installation Guide

I need to delete a key fob and re-enter it as I messed up, is there a way I can do that? I was programing the key fob using the template method *58 and selected start to be 49 point. After attempting to assign a user to it, it did nothing. I then tried the second key fob, and just went with the default start of 63 it gave, it worked perfectly. I tried then again to do the first key fob to a different start point, but keeps failing in the process.

I'm thinking this is due to the fact that key fob (serial) is already assigned at start point 49. Is there a way to edit/remove the key fob from programming and start over with the second key fob? Thanks in advance. Unfortunately, there's no way to 'view' existing user codes. If you did set a new MC, and wanted to be sure no other codes were set, you'd have to go through the process of deleting each user slot to ensure there are no other codes. If you upgraded to a VISTA-21iP, we offer no-contract monitoring services and have plans that would give you a visual indication of all users and provide an easier to use interface (online) to manage your panel's users. If that is something you'd like to explore, please email support@alarmgrid.com.

Honeywell Vista 20p Installation Guide

Setup is different for different models of the Vista system. Colos Control Software. For the VISTA-15P, VISTA-15PSIA, VISTA-20P, VISTA-20PSIA, VISTA-21iP, VISTA-21iPSIA, do the following. Note that when entering values, leading 0's should never be used: 1. Put the keypad into Installer mode. Consult the Vista manual for instructions on how to. Installation manual for the Honeywell VISTA 15P and 20P series alarm panels. For help installing your VISTA, call 888-818-7728.

Thanks Julia-- I have (I think/am reasonably confident that I have...) successfully changed the MC. But my ability to make changes is sketchy. Maybe I do not wait long enough between failed attempts? Further, I have rather poor hearing and am not always able to hear the beeps from the 6128 KP very well--and/or perhaps the KP is not working so well. Am I correct that if I have successfully changed the MC, then with it I should be able to change/remove other user codes? If so, can you simplify for me what would be the best/easiest way to remove any other codes? I have no idea what might be in there, except that there is at least the one 'limited use' UC which I stumbled upon, and which you suggested could be a duress or babysitting code?

Also, are there any newer/more advanced keypads that I could easily upgrade to? (Note that a P-1 sub-contractor/installer came close to signing me up for monitoring, but he was experienced enough to prepare for the job very slowly while I read the contract.

He intended to put in a new board and a new 5g(?) communicator. Two problems squelched it. First, the two-year contract provided that if I did not cancel during a fairly limited period of time, then the contract extended for another 12 months. The tech had informed me, and continued to inform me, that he had always believed that after the initial term, 30-days notice at any time was all that was required to cancel. (He indicated that he had learned something new that day) Secondly, the contract repeatedly mentioned that certain installed property would remain the property of the company and was subject to removal upon contract cancellation.

The tech called his supervisor, who called P-1, and after an hour of waiting, was told that while no changes could be made to the contract, it was almost unheard of for the company to remove installed equipment. But it wasn't good enough for me. I do own an alarm now, and if I signed up, then cancelled, I might no longer own an alarm.) Anyway, thanks again, as always. I believe what you are using may be the Duress code, which will arm/disarm, but will also report a Duress signal to monitoring, if enabled. This code wouldn't allow you to change other users. If the code you have gets you into programming, and you can review the Installer Code by pressing #20, then I would recommend (and this is based on the panel being a Vista-20SE, and not a Vista-20P, which is the document page we're actually having this discussion on) you press *29 then 0, this will disable the AlarmNet device so you stop getting the bF message (at least until you can sort out what you want to do) then press *99 to exit programming then follow my original instructions.

(Installer Code + 8 + 01 + New 4 Digit Master Code) If you're following my instructions and it's not working, then either you're pausing too long between digits (if you pause for more than 2 seconds between the entry of numbers, it's as if you started over to the panel, it has very poor short term memory) of you're performing these steps on a partition 2 keypad, which wouldn't work. Thanks Julia. I am still unable to change the Master Code. I'm reasonably sure I have the IC right--it does read back the four sets of digits. And I have a code that arms and disarms, which I found by trial and error--four keys in row--vertical/not horizontal. (I am not sure that this is the 'master code' or maybe just another user-code.) Anyway, I just can't change what I think is the MC Note that the upper-left corner of the LCD screen typically shows a code 'bf', which I believe has to do with the fact that the monitoring system is not in use. I am unable to get rid of the code, and wonder whether the code might be making it impossible for me to undertake other functions.??

Just bought a house from an estate. Nobody knows about the alarm. Paperwork shows a VISTA-20SE.

It has what I think are Ademco 6128 keypads. Protection-1 installed the system and is sending out a tech, but it is unclear what they will do unless I sign a monitoring contract with them. I have the programming form, with the Installer Code written in, but no Master Code. I have been trying to change the master Code using the IC, without luck. Maybe the IC was changed, or maybe I just don't know what I am doing, or maybe it just can't be done. Should I be able to change the MC if I have the correct IC?

If so, can someone better explain how? The Programming Form Indicates: 'Local programming requires the use of a 2-line Alpha keypad connected to partition 1 keypad terminals on the control.'

Thanks for any suggestions. You need to change the zone type on zone 04/05 to a zero-one.

If you have a Vista 15 or 20P, which most ADT systems are, get into programming hit *56 - 1 - 0 - 04-*-make sure zone type is a 01, if it is something else then hit 01 and proceed to hit star until you reach zone 05, then do the same thing make it a zone type 01 then his star until it shows zone 06 then hit *99 to come out of programming. When checking the zone types of 04/05 make sure the partition is partition 1 as well ( you will see that while hitting * after putting in the zone type of 01). After further inspection, after the reset 'stay' mode is actually working! Our troubleshooting was skewed initially because there is now the slight delay in place prior to it actually tripping the alarm (previously it had to have programmed to no delay, as it would trip the warning beeps the second you opened the door immediately after readying the alarm). The problem is that I have 4 perimeter doors, and only two are tripping the alarm. 03 is a motion detector. 04/05 are the other two perimeter doors.

04/05 are not chiming when opened either (01/02 are chiming and setting off the alarm perfectly now). Is there a simple way to add 04/05 zones to the stay mode/perimeter type? In order to arm the system those sensors are checked and do need to be closed, but they dont actually set the alarm off or chime when opened. I wont even worry about instant/night mode as those appear to need more in depth programming, but as long as stay mode works, im happy, and im almost there.

We purchased our home with this system already in place. We never activated a contract with ADT, we just used the system for the 'local' benefits. It worked flawlessly for 2 years +/. Just the other day, my husband noticed that when he opened the door without disarming (by accident) nothing happened. So after some testing, we found that the 'away' alarm works as it should. But any 'stay' setting (stay/night/instant) does not work. It will 'arm' and appear activated, but when you trip any of the sensors, nothing happens.

Nothing on the keypad, no warning beeps, etc. Not sure how long this has been happening, as we always disarm when we leave in the morning, etc.

But there have been a few times over the 2 years that we have opened a door forgetting to do so and tripped it, probably within the last 2 months, so I know it has been working most of the time. I wonder if maybe in one of my sleepless mornings resetting the alarm after my husband left for work I somehow disabled the sensors or something. Doubtful, but who knows. Any thoughts on what might provoke the sensors to 'trip' the alarm whilst in away mode, but not in stay? We disconnected the cell tower box, so that it can't communicate in any way with ADT. Did a full system reset.

Made a few programming changes (disabled a few default sensors that we don't actually have, as we only have 5 active sensors, and also activated the 2nd keypad). Programming is all new to me, so It took extensive research just to accomplish the above.

I know you can turn on/off certain sensors so they don't trip while someone is home (like a motion detector), but I'd assume this would require being in programming mode, so I don't see how a couple wrong accidental presses could do anything like this. But maybe it just needs to be reset, in case ADT did anything remotely. So I need some help on making sure all my perimeter sensors are activated in stay mode. Not sure if partitions matter as I'd like everything on the same grid. It's a small house, I don't need any areas 'sectioned' off. Quick arming only works if you have quick arming enabled in programming.

It's field *21. The top buttons only work if you've programmed a valid user code into the keypad for the once touch arming. The MC + 2 or 3 should certainly work though no matter how the panel is programmed. Are you pausing in between key strokes?

You do need a pretty consistent sequence of presses for the system to accept the command. Also, are you sure you're using the right MC? The default is 1234 unless you've change it.

If the fob panic works, but it won't arm/disarm, then it hasn't been assigned to a valid user code yet. Here are the steps to do that: Master Code + 8 + (User #) + #4 + Zone # For example, in your case, to assign your first keyfob to the master code: Master Code + 8 + 02 + #4 + 49 You should hear a confirmation beep, then the first fob should begin to work.

When programming via the keypad, you can assign more than one fob to a single user number, so you can follow the same steps with the second fob, changing zone 49 to zone 53. Today, my voltage at 1 & 2 was 17.6 with battery and 17.7 without battery. I think I found the problem. The only other change I made, that I failed to mention, was the upgrade to the V9.18 PROM. I decided this AM to remove and re-seat the PROM chip. I must of had a bad chip connection as the 'NO AC' performs properly now.

It appears when I remove AC and disappears when I plug it in again. Thanks for your help. I was doing this in preparation for the install of a Honeywell iGSMV4G. Any words of wisdom for that communicator? I want to eliminate my land line.

There isn't anything in programming that would cause this. When you're testing, are you testing with a siren connected? If so, then I think your panel battery may be the issue. Most of the 2A of available siren current come from the battery. If you put it into alarm, and the battery isn't providing enough power for the siren, then that power has to come from somewhere else, and this would drag the AC down. You say you get 17.2VAC on terminals 1 and 2, is this with the battery connected?

If you disconnect the battery, do you get more voltage on 1 and 2? No AC always shows when you're in programming. Download Driver Printer Canon Ip1800 Series here. Is it possible that you exit programming with *99, then hold * + # to test with the keypad panic? If you press * + # within about a minute of exiting programming, it'll just take you right back into programming, in which case, the No AC is going to come back up. If this is the case, wait a couple of minutes before testing once you exit programming, or to speed up the processor reset when you exit programming, press #, 0, # 0, a couple of times. This will clear it more quickly. I guess that is a possibility, but in all my years supporting Honeywell security products, I've never seen that happen.

I have seen panels get corrupted, and require a default, and panel corruption can cause some strange things to happen. If you had access to another similar panel, via a family member, a friend, etc. You could check to see if either of those keypads work properly on a different system, at least then you'd know the keypad was good, but you'd still be left with the question of whether you could just default your current system and re-program, or if it requires you to replace it. If you system is older, it may be worthwhile to just replace it. VISTA-20P / VISTA-20PSIA VISTA-15P / VISTA-15PSIA Security Systems ADEMCO VISTA SERIES Programming Guide K5305-1PRV8 5/11 Rev.

A RECOMMENDATIONS FOR PROPER PROTECTION The Following Recommendations for the Location of Fire and Burglary Detection Devices Help Provide Proper Coverage for the Protected Premises. Recommendations For Smoke And Heat Detectors With regard to the number and placement of smoke/heat detectors, we subscribe to the recommendations contained in the National Fire Protection Association's (NFPA) Standard #72 noted below. Early warning fire detection is best achieved by the installation of fire detection equipment in all rooms and areas of the household as follows: For minimum protection a smoke detector should be installed outside of each separate sleeping area, and on each additional floor of a multi-floor family living unit, including basements. The installation of smoke detectors in kitchens, attics (finished or unfinished), or in garages is not normally recommended. For additional protection the NFPA recommends that you install heat or smoke detectors in the living room, dining room, bedroom(s), kitchen, hallway(s), attic, furnace room, utility and storage rooms, basements and attached garages. In addition, we recommend the following: • • Install a smoke detector inside every bedroom where a smoker sleeps.

Install a smoke detector inside every bedroom where someone sleeps with the door partly or completely closed. Smoke could be blocked by the closed door. Also, an alarm in the hallway outside may not wake up the sleeper if the door is closed. • Install a smoke detector inside bedrooms where electrical appliances (such as KITCHEN portable heaters, air conditioners or KITCHEN DINING BDRM BEDROOM BEDROOM TV ROOM DINING humidifiers) are used. LIVING ROOM BDRM BEDROOM LIVING ROOM BEDROOM • Install a smoke detector at both ends of a hallway if the hallway is more than 40 feet (12 meters) long.

• Install smoke detectors in any room where an alarm control is located, or in any room where alarm control connections to an AC source or phone lines are made. If detectors are not so located, a fire within the room could prevent the control from reporting a fire or an intrusion. THIS CONTROL COMPLIES WITH NFPA REQUIREMENTS FOR TEMPORAL PULSE SOUNDING OF FIRE NOTIFICATION APPLIANCES. Smoke Detectors for Minimum Protection Smoke Detectors for Additional Protection BEDROOM TO BR Heat-Activated Detectors BEDROOM BEDROOM KTCHN GARAGE LVNG RM BASEMENT.

CLOSED DOOR floor_plan-001-V1 Recommendations For Proper Intrusion Protection For proper intrusion coverage, sensors should be located at every possible point of entry to a home or commercial premises. This would include any skylights that may be present, and the upper windows in a multi-level building. In addition, we recommend that radio backup be used in a security system so that alarm signals can still be sent to the alarm monitoring station in the event that the telephone lines are out of order (alarm signals are normally sent over the phone lines, if connected to an alarm monitoring station).