[adsense_id=”4″]Recently there were some discussions on the Z3 message board regarding painting wheels. In response to that discussion I went through my Z3 photo collection looking for photos people may want to see in regard to wheel color and/or painting. In this first photo the owner found some aftermarket wheels that already matched the color of his car (no painting required). Okay it’s not really painting, but chroming wheels is another way to change the look of your stock wheels. In my opinion chrome adds to the retro look of the Z3, this picture jumped out at me as I was going through my collection because the white and chrome combination looked so good. If I owned a white Z3 (and someday I may), I would consider painting the wheels white just like this M owner has.

The white on white look is fantastic (in my opinion). It reminds me of the early 80’s Porsche 944’s that apparently had a white wheel option if you got the white exterior paint. Not sure if it’s the quality of these photos or the specific lighting in these photos, but personally I would be after a more flat white look (but that’s just me chasing my memory of the old Porsche white wheels). Now at the other end of the spectrum (sorry couldn’t resist that pun) we have black wheels. I’m sure this look is very hard to photograph, but these photos don’t appeal to me because you can’t make out any details of the wheels. You can see more details of the wheel in this photo.

Revue Technique Bmw Z3 Pdf Editor. The Asahi Shimbun. With the Rio de Janeiro Paralympics approaching, The Asahi Shimbun has begun a series focusing on various.

Maybe its the matching black exterior paint but this photo makes the black wheels look better than the previous photo. Notice how the dark paint makes the disc brake stand out. Some red caliper paint would really stand out. I purchased a 1997 Z3 1.9 roadster in June and only received one keyless entry remote, even though it came with two sets of keys. Two weeks ago, I was searching for another remote, and found that if I were to purchase a keyless remote (part # 82 11 1 469 448) at a BMW dealership, it would cost around $120. Also, if I wanted to have the remote activated, so that it would operate on my vehicle, it would cost an additional $70. For all us BMW owners out there, doesn’t it seem a bit odd that you bought a $30,000 sports car, and yet BMW still feels free to charge excessive amounts of money for relatively simple things.

Activating a keyless remote is a simple thing. Acronis True Image 2014 Keygen Download No Virus. To make a long story short, I managed to buy a copy of the instructions, on how to activate or deactivate the keyless remote, for $7. I feel that something so simple (and actually pretty fun), should not cost $70. It all boils down to highway robbery.

I know that this works on a ’97 Z3, and with a keyless remote part # 82 11 1 469 448, so, without further adieu, here are the instructions for activating a keyless remote on a BMW. Each remote transmitter has a unique identification (ID) code. In order for a replacement remote to operate your security system, or to delete the ID code from a lost remote, you must follow the procedures detailed below so that your system’s control module will learn/delete the desired ID code(s).

This code-learning initialization procedure must be followed precisely within the sequence and time constraints specified, in order for the procedure to be carried out successfully. Preparation 1. Close all doors, trunk, and hood.

The security system must be in “disarm” mode. The key must be removed from the ignition key slot. Enter Code-Learning Mode 3. Open the trunk and leave it open.

Open the driver’s door and sit in the driver’s seat. Close the driver’s door. Cycle the ignition switch five times between the “off” position and position 2 (ignition “ON”, all dash warning lamps will illuminate). The red status LED will illuminate continuously, and the siren will “chirp” once, to indicate that the code-learning mode has been initiated. DO NOT START THE ENGINE The ignition switch cycling in step #6 must be performed within ten seconds. The sequence in steps #1-6 must be performed within 45 seconds.

Registering/Delete ID Code(s) 7. Open driver’s door, (remain seated in driver’s seat) 8. Close driver’s door. Press and release any button on the remote you wish to register into the system. The status LED will shut off momentarily to indicate that one ID code has been registered.

Repeat steps 7 through 9 to register the remaining three ID codes. Roger Taylor Electric Fire Raritan. Exiting Code-Learning Mode 11. Open driver’s door, and exit from vehicle, leaving the door opened.

Close driver’s door. The LED will turn off and the siren will “chirp” twice. The initialization procedure is now completed, test all remotes to confirm operation. It is possible for the system to memorize a total of four different ID codes. As a new code is initialized into memory, the oldest code in memory is automatically deleted.

If you had lost your remotes and wished to delete the lost remote ID codes from memory, you could initialize the ID code from a newly purchased replacement transmitter four times thereby deleting the previous ID codes from system memory. If you have any questions, I can be reached at KitIson1985@aol.com.

The factory installed glove box on my 1997 1.9 Z3 was definitely not an area that BMW decided to spend a lot of time on. After a few years the stamped plastic box began to sag in the middle under the weight of the glove box door and its contents. And who wants droopy drawers in their sports car?

Here is an easy fix that will cost you about $5 and take around an hour to complete. The basic premise is to brace the top area of the glove box with a metal support, and insert sheet metal screws into the support from inside the glove box to eliminate the sagging. You will need a stubby phillips screw driver, an awl, a drill and the use of a grinder. All of the following items were purchased from Ace Hardware: * 2 3/16 washers * 2 3/8 washers * 2 number 8 x 32 1 1/4″ sheet metal screws with nuts * 2 vinyl bushings cut to about 3/8″ in height * 2 flip cap screw covers (many colors to choose from) * 1 10″ x 1″ metal brace * Loctite It is important that you purchase the 10″ x 1″ brace at Ace Hardware unless you want to do some serious drilling. The pre-drilled holes at the ends of the brace fit over the existing screws that protrude from the bottom of the glove box. The next set of holes provide a great place to drill the holes into the glove box.

Folow the instructions in the MZ3.net article “Stopping Glovebox Rattles” to remvoe the glovebox from the car. Turn the glove box over and place the metal brace over the two existing screws coming out of the glove box. Use the awl to mark the centers of the holes that you will be drilling into the glove box.

Note that the holes are offset, so use your judgement as to where to mark the centers for drilling. Refer to the picture at right and the metal brace above. You will need to notch the brace in the center to allow for the latch of the glovebox to close. With the metal brace resting on top of the existing screws (A), outline the area to be removed from the brace for the glovebox latch (C) using a black marker. Remove the metal brace and use the grinder to remove the area you have marked. Place the brace back on the glove box and trim the notched area until the glovebox latches closed easily.

Now you are ready to drill. To avoid drilling into the glove box drawer, hold a wooden block inside the compartment near the latch where the drill bit will come through. Using a 3/16 bit, drill the marked holes into the glove box. After you finish drilling, take this opportunity to give the glovebox a thorough cleaning. Attach the metal brace to the glove box by assembling as illustrated below.

After you have attached the metal brace and tightened the nuts firmly, add a drop of Loctite where the bolt leaves the nut. This will prevent the nut from vibrating loose. Close the caps over the screw heads and reinstall the glovebox into the car.

Again refer to the the MZ3.net article “Stopping Glovebox Rattles” for instructions on reinstalling the glovebox. It all started from my house in Annapolis Maryland and down with the DC area Z3 group to SC. After that I tagged along with the Tennessee group (Great beer, company and food. Thanks guys) on my way to Denver. At Denver I picked up my girlfriend at the airport to start the long roundabout drive to see this great country we live in. This is the list of what I did: * Grand Junction, CO (Hotel) * Arches National Park, UT (tent camping) * Mesa Verde NP, CO (camping) * Grand Canyon NP, AZ (camping) * Las Vegas, NV (Hotel) * Zion NP, UT (Hotel on the 11th) * Bryce Canyon NP, UT (camping) * Salt Lake City, UT (Hotel) * Jackson, WY (Hotel) * Grand Teton NP, WY (camping) * Yellowstone NP, WY (camping two nights) * Badlands NP, SD (camping) * Chicago, IL (friend’s house) * Home on Sunday afternoon and spent the afternoon washing my very dirty car. Some facts about my trip: * 7,281 miles driven * 29 mpg average (The performance driving at HC brought this way down!) * 52 mph average speed * 120 mph top speed (girlfriend would not let me go faster) * Most speed traps in Ohio * No V1 required (Never got ticket!

And I was always speeding, well almost always) * Only lost $120 in Vegas * Was very close to wining a Z3!

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